Grey peas with bacon are particularly popular in the winter since they form a hearty and nourishing dish. A bowl of these peas will warm you from the inside out and provide you with the energy you need to continue exploring the country. Grey peas with bacon are easy to come by, as the meal can be seen on many menus around the country. Choose the large peas if you have the option. There are two types: a smaller one and a larger one. Big peas are more traditional, but they are more difficult to raise and are becoming increasingly scarce. Even if you only have access to small grey peas, we are confident that you will enjoy this dish.

Ingredients

• 2 packets of grey peas (from local butcher), Bicarbonate of soda, Large pack of bacon with fat on (smoked is tastier), Salt & pepper, Soy sauce, 1 crusty loaf, Butter

Directions

• Put grey peas in a large saucepan add 1 tablespoon of Bicarbonate of soda, cover with boiling water.Keep topping water up to cover peas as they will swell.
• Soak overnight.
• Thoroughly rinse peas in clean water.
• Add peas back to pan season well with salt & pepper.
• Cover with boiling water.
• Bring to boil.
• When boiling turn down to simmer gently.
• Keep a watch on pan as it often boils over, and this is very messy.
• Cut bacon into bite size pieces and fry – adding good shake of soy sauce until just going crispy.
• Add bacon and fat from frying pan to grey peas.
• Bring back to simmer.
• Simmer for 2-3 hours.
• They will need to be topped up throughout cooking with boiled water and constantly stirred to desired consistency.
• Add more seasoning if required.
• Just before ready to eat slice crusty bread and spread with butter (to dip in grey peas).

Rupjmaize, or Latvian rye bread, is a common sight throughout the country. The rye flour, malt, and caraway seeds in this bread give it a rich brown color. Also on the menu were garlic fried rye breadsticks with cheese sauce. While it may appear strange at first, this is the ideal snack to have in a pub! Make sure to order these if you see them on the menu.

Ingredients

• 200g rye flour, plus extra for dusting, 200g strong white or wholemeal flour, 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast, ½ tsp fine salt, 1 tbsp honey, 1 tsp caraway seed (optional)

Directions

• Tip the flours, yeast and salt into a bowl. In a jug, mix the honey with 250ml warm water, pour the liquid into the bowl and mix to form a dough. Rye flour can be quite dry and absorbs lots of water, if the dough looks too dry add more warm water until you have a soft dough Tip out onto your work surface and knead for 10 mins until smooth. Rye contains less gluten than white flour so the dough will not feel as springy as a conventional white loaf.
• Place the dough in a well oiled bowl, cover with cling film and leave to rise in a warm place for 1-2 hrs, or until roughly doubled in size. Dust a 2lb/900g loaf tin with flour.
• Tip the dough back onto your work surface and knead briefly to knock out any air bubbles. If using caraway seeds work these in to the dough. Shape into a smooth oval loaf and pop into your tin. Cover the tin with oiled cling film and leave to rise somewhere warm for a further 1 – 1.5 hr, or until doubled in size.
• Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Remove the cling film and dust the surface of the loaf with rye flour. Slash a few incisions on an angle then bake for 30 mins until dark brown and hollow sounding when tapped. Transfer to a wire cooling rack and leave to cool for at least 20 mins before serving

It should come as no surprise that Latvians enjoy eating fish, given the country's lengthy coastline. To preserve the fish, the villagers first smoked it. They continue to practice this tradition now because they appreciate the taste. You'll understand why Latvian smoked fish is so popular once you've tried it. The smokey flavor pairs well with local fish such as herring, pike, plaice, and cod. Smoked fish is available in most fishing settlements along the coast. If you don't have time to see all of these, go to the Riga Central Market instead. You can buy and sample a variety of fish and seafood here.

Ingredients

• 2 cups water, 1 cup muscovado sugar or packed dark-brown sugar, Coarse salt, 2 skin-on trout fillets (8 ounces each), boned, 1 whole trout (1 1/4 pounds), backbone and pin bones removed, 1 side skin-on arctic char (1 1/4 pounds), Wood trimmings or apple wood chips (1 cup for trout fillets or 2 cups for whole trout or char)Vegetable oil, for grill basket

Directions

• Make the brine: Combine water, sugar, and 1/2 cup salt. Place fish in a nonreactive dish; cover with brine. Refrigerate for 2 hours.
• Heat charcoal grill to medium, piling coals on 1 side to set up direct and indirect heat zones. Set a drip pan under the grill grate in the indirect heat zone.
• Soak wood trimmings in water for 30 minutes. Drain (if smoking whole trout or char, leave 1/2 cup wood in water); add to coals.
• Smoke the fish: Once smoke develops, place fish in a lightly oiled grill basket. Transfer to grill rack, and set over drip pan. Open lid vent, and position over fish. (This will direct smoke to impart maximum smokiness.)For the trout fillets: Smoke fish until cooked through but not dry, 12 to 15 minutes.For the whole trout: Smoke for 10 minutes. Flip basket. Drain remaining 1/2 cup wood; add to coals. Smoke fish until cooked through but not dry, 8 to 10 minutes more.For the side of arctic char: Smoke for 10 minutes. Drain remaining 1/2 cup wood; add to coals. Smoke fish until cooked through but not dry, 13 to 15 minutes more.

Cabbage soup is popular in many Central, Eastern, and Northern European countries. This soup is known as skbu kpostu zupa in Latvia, and it is made with sauerkraut, potatoes, carrots, and groats. A variant with bacon is also available on occasion, and the chef served it to us in a hollow bread. Cabbage soup, like grey peas, is a great way to warm you in the winter. This rich dish will satisfy your hunger and leave you wanting more. If you're visiting in the summer and don't feel like eating soup, order sauerkraut as a side dish. This fermented cabbage may be seen on many cuisines across the country.

Ingredients

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, 1 large onion, chopped, 2 carrots, chopped, 2 stalks celery, minced, 1/2 tsp. chili powder, Kosher salt, Freshly ground black pepper, 1 (15-oz.) can white beans, drained and rinsed, 2 cloves garlic, minced, 1 tsp. thyme leaves, 4 c. low-sodium chicken (or vegetable) broth, 2 c. water, 1/2 large head cabbage, chopped, 1 (15-oz.) can chopped fire-roasted tomatoes, Pinch red pepper flakes, 2 tbsp. freshly chopped parsley, plus more for garnish

Directions

• In a large pot (or dutch oven) over medium heat, heat olive oil. Add onion, carrots, and celery, and season with salt, pepper, and chili powder. Cook, stirring often, until vegetables are soft, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in beans, garlic, and thyme and cook until garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add broth and water, and bring to a simmer.
• Stir in tomatoes and cabbage and simmer until cabbage is wilted, about 6 minutes.
• Remove from heat and stir in red pepper flakes, and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with more parsley, if using.
  

In Latvian cuisine, meatballs, also known as kotletes, are a popular dish. Apart from minced meat, these frequently include white bread that has been soaked in milk, making them softer and more juicy. Latvian meatballs are frequently served with potatoes and sauerkraut on menus. This is another opportunity to try Latvian sauerkraut if you haven't already.

Ingredients

• Meatballs, 500g (1 lb) pork mince, 2 tablespoons stale breadcrumbs, 1 egg, lightly whisked, 2 heaped tablespoons sour cream, salt and generous pinch of pepper, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, Green salad, 1/2 head of lettuce, 1/2 cup of buttermilk, 2 tablespoons of sour cream, salt for seasoning

Instructions

• Meatballs
• Combine pork, breadcrumbs, egg, sour cream, salt and pepper in a bowl.
• Roll mince mixture into balls, using around 2 tablespoons of mince mixture for each ball.
• Heat oil in a frying pan, add meatballs and slightly flatten them with a spatula (or a hand if you are brave enough).
• Fry the meatballs for around 5 minutes on each side or until cooked through.
• Green salad
• Thinly slice lettuce, mix with buttermilk and sour cream, season with salt.
• Serve with soft boiled potatoes.