Smoked fish

It should come as no surprise that Latvians enjoy eating fish, given the country's lengthy coastline. To preserve the fish, the villagers first smoked it. They continue to practice this tradition now because they appreciate the taste. You'll understand why Latvian smoked fish is so popular once you've tried it. The smokey flavor pairs well with local fish such as herring, pike, plaice, and cod. Smoked fish is available in most fishing settlements along the coast. If you don't have time to see all of these, go to the Riga Central Market instead. You can buy and sample a variety of fish and seafood here.

Ingredients

• 2 cups water, 1 cup muscovado sugar or packed dark-brown sugar, Coarse salt, 2 skin-on trout fillets (8 ounces each), boned, 1 whole trout (1 1/4 pounds), backbone and pin bones removed, 1 side skin-on arctic char (1 1/4 pounds), Wood trimmings or apple wood chips (1 cup for trout fillets or 2 cups for whole trout or char)Vegetable oil, for grill basket

Directions

• Make the brine: Combine water, sugar, and 1/2 cup salt. Place fish in a nonreactive dish; cover with brine. Refrigerate for 2 hours.
• Heat charcoal grill to medium, piling coals on 1 side to set up direct and indirect heat zones. Set a drip pan under the grill grate in the indirect heat zone.
• Soak wood trimmings in water for 30 minutes. Drain (if smoking whole trout or char, leave 1/2 cup wood in water); add to coals.
• Smoke the fish: Once smoke develops, place fish in a lightly oiled grill basket. Transfer to grill rack, and set over drip pan. Open lid vent, and position over fish. (This will direct smoke to impart maximum smokiness.)For the trout fillets: Smoke fish until cooked through but not dry, 12 to 15 minutes.For the whole trout: Smoke for 10 minutes. Flip basket. Drain remaining 1/2 cup wood; add to coals. Smoke fish until cooked through but not dry, 8 to 10 minutes more.For the side of arctic char: Smoke for 10 minutes. Drain remaining 1/2 cup wood; add to coals. Smoke fish until cooked through but not dry, 13 to 15 minutes more.