Give the sauna a whirl – and take it seriously

A Finn's idea of fun is to strip nude, roast in a sauna heated to 175°F (80°C) and beat yourself with a circulation-boosting birch whisk (a vasta or vihta), and then dive into an avanto (ice hole). Does that sound masochistic? This country has 1001 ways to toughen you up, and one of them is the sauna routine (pronounced "sah-OO-nah" rather than "SAW-nuh").


Saunas are not a luxury in Finland; they are a way of life. Marriage, divorce, birth, death, new job: you name it, a sauna is likely to be present. In Finland, which has a population of about 5.5 million people, there are approximately three million saunas. The Finns congregate here to mingle, conduct business, put the world to rights, rest, meditate, and cleanse. Learning the skill of sauna-going provides an insight into the soul of the country.

Gender separation is almost always present in public saunas. Shower first, go naked, be quiet, take a towel to sit on, and ladle water onto the stove to create aromatic löyly (steam), taking care not to splash too freely. You should break a sweat in around 15 minutes — but remember, this is not a race. Take frequent rest and drink plenty of water to stay hydrated.
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