Longman & Eagle

There are old fashioneds at Longman & Eagle, stirred slowly and carefully behind a dark, gorgeous bar. There are dozens of whiskeys for three dollars, including the house favorite, Cabin Still, which is smooth and gentle. There are also flannel shirts, mustaches, and grandmother sweaters. There are a lot of them. But if you think eating at a restaurant owned in part by the Empty Bottle guys means being systematically ignored by a waitstaff of smelly, aloof, strategically scruffed dudes and the waifish, Lycra-clad women who dig them means being systematically ignored, you've seriously underestimated the genre.

You must allow yourself organ meats if you want to do this restaurant right. Get the beef-tongue hash, a dish that transforms a strangely textured cut into something alternately fatty and crisp, then tops it with a perfectly fried duck egg. Then, take a break by ordering a vegetable. It's too much to serve a brandade so deeply and wonderfully expressive of salt cod with equally salty potato chips (however delicious they are). You'd better hope the kitchen is paying attention, because there's nothing more satisfying than spreading pure, fatty bone marrow on grilled toast, then sprinkling it with flakes of sea salt and sprightly onion jam—and nothing more disturbing than the sight of stiff, pink, undercooked marrow.

Google Rating: 4.7/5.0
Address: 2657 N Kedzie AveChicago60647
Contact: 773-276-7110
Website: longmanandeagle.com