Shiro

Shiro is a gently spicy chickpea or bean purée that Ethiopians particularly like on fasting days. It's one of the most inconspicuous foods you'll come across, and it can look like nothing more than slop. Don't be fooled, it's delicious. Shiro is frequently enhanced with the addition of minced onions, garlic, and, depending on regional preference, ground ginger or chopped tomatoes and chili peppers. Tegabino shiro is a sort of shiro cooked with strongly spiced legumes, such as chickpeas, field peas, or fava beans, flour, oil or butter, and water brought to a boil, then served in a little clay pot boiling all the way to the table.

Ingredients

• FOR THE BERBERE SPICE MIX:, 1 (1-inch) cinnamon stick, 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds, 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, 6 green cardamom pods, 3 allspice berries, 4 dried chiles de árbol, stemmed and seeded, ¼ cup dried onion flakes, 3 tablespoons sweet paprika, ½ teaspoon ground ginger, ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• FOR THE SHIRO:, 1 large red onion, coarsely chopped, 10 garlic cloves, peeled, ½ cup canola oil, 2 tablespoons homemade or store-bought berbere spice mix, Fine sea salt, 3 medium vine-ripened tomatoes (about 11 ounces), coarsely chopped, ½ cup chickpea flour, 1 to 2 jalapeños, stemmed and thinly sliced, Injera or baguette, for serving

Directions

• To make the spice mixture, follow these steps: In a small heavy skillet over medium heat, combine cinnamon, coriander, fenugreek, peppercorns, cardamom, and allspice. Cook, stirring regularly, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the aroma is strong and the spices are gently browned. Allow to cool.
• Add the chiles and onion flakes to the mixture in a clean coffee grinder and grind to a fine powder (or use a mortar and pestle). Sift the ground spices into a fine-mesh strainer placed over a bowl. Any large pieces that remain in the sieve should be regrinded and added to the bowl with the ground spices. Combine the paprika, ginger, and nutmeg in a bowl. To combine, whisk everything together thoroughly, then transfer to an airtight container. (This recipe yields around 1/2 cup.)
• Prepare the shiro as follows: In a food processor, pulse the onion and garlic until very finely chopped, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula to ensure even chopping. Remove from the equation.
• Over medium-low heat, place a large Dutch oven or comparable saucepan. Add oil, onion purée, 2 tablespoons berbere, and a hefty amount of salt after the saucepan is warm. Stir to mix, then cover and cook on low heat while you prepare the tomatoes.
• Pulse the tomatoes in a food processor until they are puréed. Increase the heat to high and add to the onion mixture. Reduce heat to low and stir in chickpea flour after the mixture has reached a boil. The consistency of the mixture will be similar to peanut butter. To loosen the mixture, slowly pour in 2 cups water in a thin stream while stirring. Continue to whisk until the mixture is smooth and well-integrated.
• Bring shiro to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to low heat and simmer for about 5 minutes to cook off the raw taste of the chickpea flour and blend all of the flavors. Season with salt and pepper to taste after adding the jalapeos.
• Serve right away. (Leftovers can be kept in the refrigerator for a few days in an airtight container.) For up to 3 months, keep unused berbere in a cold, dark place.)