Wining and dining, Serbian style
Leskovac in South Serbia claims dominance over national barbeque cuisine (Rotilj), hosting a five-day festival called Rotiljada each September, where massed grill stands compete to cook up the world's largest pljieskavica (a hamburger, often stuffed with cheese or bacon), among other national delicacies, in typical Serbian style.
On a quiet Sunday afternoon, nothing beats eating on grilled pig ribs coated with kajmak (clotted cream) and washed down with a fine Serbian beer in a Kafana (restaurant-tavern where live ethnic music is sometimes performed).
Vegetarians need not worry, as Serbia produces excellent salad vegetables as well as the popular red-pepper dip Ajvar. Raspberries (malina) are another popular export from Serbia; you may find them fresh in the countryside, especially in Umadija.
In the fall, head to Aleksandrovac, the seat of the historic winemaking upa area, 143 miles (231 kilometers) south of Belgrade, for yearly celebrations (including concerts and grape-stomping). The town fountain itself spouts alcohol during the raucous harvest celebration (berba). Tastings are held in celebration of indigenous varietals such as the Prokupac red and the Tamjanika Muscat. This is among the Things to Know before traveling to Serbia.
