Cochinillo asado

This dish is popular throughout Spain, but it is particularly Castilian. Segovia is known for its wonderful cochinillos, or "suckling pigs," which many local establishments specialize in roasting to perfection. Most cities and even small villages in Castile have restaurants that serve cochinillos, much to the delight of locals and visitors alike. Restaurante Botn, whose owner is a true master of this roasting art, is one of my favorite places to go for this delicacy in Madrid.

Pigs three to four times that size, destined for outdoor pig roasts, are more readily available. A good butcher, on the other hand, should be able to find a pig small enough to roast in the oven.

The search is well worth the effort! The little pigs are simple to prepare and so tender that when cooked, they practically fall apart, yielding succulent meat that can't be duplicated with a larger pig. The tender, crispy skin is eaten like potato chips and is lined with a thin layer of baby fat. I serve this dish with a simple green salad as a side dish.