Luca

When it comes to establishing themselves, it often seems like restaurants have two options: either become the hippest, buzziest spot in town with reservations flowing in like hen's teeth or choose a more understated, refined level of sophistication and elegance that will keep you coming back for more. With its airy, expansive dining room, perfectly judged lighting, and terracotta-red and olive-green leather banquettes, Luca, established by Isaac McHale, Johnny Smith, and Daniel Willis of The Clove Club, manages to somehow combine both: it feels effortlessly grown-up, yet still has youthful energy - and a lively bar area with all-important conspiratorial booths - that make it a place to be, even five years after it opened.

However, there is one surefire technique to guarantee repeat business, and McHale's crew is virtually unrivaled in this regard. Let's start with the parmesan fries, which you should order if you go, as they have earned cult status all to themselves due to their lightness as an angel's vapour trail. Then there are the antipasti, which are predominantly British ingredients that are carefully prepared with Italian flare. Examples include Hereford beef tartare that has been cured in Nebbiolo and Orkney scallops that have been paired with Jerusalem artichoke and nduja. The primi are prepared in-house in a separate pasta room; they include taglierini that is as airy as an angel's hair and conchiglie that are as delicate as a cherub's ear.

Address: 88 St John St, London EC1M 4EH, United Kingdom
Phone: +44 20 3859 3000
Rating: 4.5/5.0, 715 Google reviews
Website: https://luca.restaurant/