Puffy tacos at Bar Amá

Similar to its sibling restaurant, Bar Amá is one of those new-old establishments that was designed to appear older than its three-month existence. The relaxed, contemporary setting is defined by chevron-printed reclaimed wood planks against an unpainted ceiling and patterned tiles behind the bar. Although it can often be difficult to distinguish between waiters and other staff members because of the uniform that appears to be skinny jeans and plaid, service is typically prompt. Bar Ama is a pleasant restaurant that stays true to its Tex-Mex heritage and doesn't take itself too seriously.

Bar Amá's claim to fame may be puffy tacos, light, deep-fried versions of this community's mainstay, but the heart of chef Josef Centeno's second Downtown restaurant rests in its queso ($9). Taste-wise, the molten orange material is startlingly identical to the cheap, store-bought version, having the same color and viscosity of melted Velveeta cheese. They may find it strange at a place where $12 gets you two tacos, but they are glad to get their hands on these delicious flavors. That is one of the best-kept secrets in Los Angeles.

The tortilla serves as a foundation for many dishes at Bar Amá. Both corn and flour are exceptional products that are manufactured every day. For a full snack, try the chorizo puffy tacos ($12), which are topped with cotija cheese and lettuce shreds. For those who aren't frightened of carbs atop carbs, try the cheesy polenta taquitos ($8), which are corn tortillas rolled up with a cheese-grits-like filling. There is also the queso, of course. You might want to skip this one if you believe that you have an addicted personality.

Google Rating: 4.3/5.0

Location: 118 W 4th St Los Angeles 90013
Website: www.bar-ama.com

Phone: 213-687-8002
Opening hours: Mon-Thu 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm; Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-midnight; Sat 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sun 11:30am-3pm, 5-10pm