Shah-i-Zinda
Overlooking Samarkand stands another memorial to the dead: the Shah-i-Zinda tomb complex, the most atmospheric of Uzbekistan's majolica masterpieces. The complex tells the tale of Samarkand, from humble origins to the stunning heights of the Timurid empire, and was built to hold the graves of leaders and their kin from the 11th to the 19th centuries. The complex is one of the most beautiful historical sites in Uzbekistan.
Samarkand's holy site is a mausoleum necropolis. It evolved into an architectural proving ground in the 14th and 15th centuries, with an unrivaled celebration of ceramic art in Central Asia, making this street of the dead possibly the most visually spectacular site in Samarkand.
The name relates to its earliest, innermost and holiest shrine – a series of chilly, quiet rooms centered around what is most likely the grave of Qusam ibn-Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Mohammed who is claimed to have brought Islam to this area in the 7th century.
The current form of Shah-i-Zinda emerged in the 14th century when Timur and subsequently Ulugh Beg buried their families and favorites besides the Living King.
Look for Amir Burunduk's 16-sided tomb, Ulugh Beg's octagonal mausoleum, and the magnificent Alim Nesefi Mausoleum, which features relief majolica tiles, eight-pointed stars, and the names of twelve Shi'ite imams inscribed.
The sapphire blue tombs are part of Timur's female relatives' necropolis. The most exquisite mausoleum is the Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum (1372), which is the final resting place of Timur's beautiful young niece. The magnificent majolica and terracotta work in this room – note the miniscule amount of space between the tiles – was of such high quality that it required almost minimal restoration.
The tight corridors keep Shah-i-Zinda cool, so you may visit at any time of year, but come early in the morning to have the place to yourself. After seeing Shah-i-Zinda, make your way to Samarkand's city cemetery, where the most frequented burial is that of former strongman Islam Karimov, who governed the country with an iron fist for more than a quarter-century, claiming to be Timur's successor.
City: Samarkand
