Whirling Dervishes

Sheikh Hamed al-Nil was a Qadiriyah order (tariqa) Sufi leader who lived in the 19th century. The dancing and chanting dervishes of Omdurman gather at his tomb once a week. Every Friday at around 16.00, tariqa followers gather to dance and pray, drawing large groups of bystanders and participants. The highlight of any journey to Khartoum should be a visit to the dervishes.

The ceremony begins with a procession to the sheikh's tomb through the cemetery. It's a stunning sight to see the dervishes carrying the tariqa's green banner; they seem very different from the constrained white robes that most Sudanese wear. They chant while marching to the sounds of drums and cymbals. The dervishes begin to circle the clearing while bobbing and clapping as the chants speed up.

Photography is allowed, but it’s best to be in silence. Do not rush into the circle to fire a few bullets; the dervishes' ceremony relies on ritual and atmosphere, which shouldn't be disturbed in any manner.