Aska

The gloom of the dining room contrasts with the brightness of the open kitchen, which sits on one side of the room like a stage, but your gaze will be drawn inexorably towards the white-jacketed chefs as they go about their work with quiet precision. Eating here is serious business, but the ambiance isn't monastic—a happy bustle pervades the space, aided by the chefs, who deliver the dishes individually and describe them with irresistible enthusiasm.

Sweet and savory flavors emanate from a heated "consomme" poured over Oscietra caviar and roasted fresh potatoes. Then, salted white currants, lichen, and birch are added to poached fish over curds, while smoked trout belly, roe, and preserved truffle are added to a sourdough coin.

This new Nordic cuisine, which emphasizes man's relationship with nature and the changing seasons, includes bedstraw ice cream, meadowsweet caramel, and an attractive presentation of "confections". It's clever without being arrogant, unique without being gimmicky, and complex without being overly so.

Location: 47 S 5th St, Brooklyn, NY 11249

Website: askanyc.com