Ever

A jar, like a yogurt cup, is neatly wrapped in an aluminum wrapper. When you open it, smoke wafts into your nostrils, prompting you to reflexively lick the emulsions artfully positioned on the wrapper's backside. Trippy. The second meal is accompanied by a little almond cream skull, as if to say, "Get ready for a mind-bending ride, buddy."

So begins a voyage through chef Curtis Duffy and Michael Muser's surreal slow-burn tasting menu, which is tasty and amusing despite the serious modernist antics. (That's Matthew McConaughey on the bathroom's speaker, reading from his memoir.) The exotic wine combinations are downright fantastic, adding a new depth to what already feels like a gentle acid trip. Ever at 1340 West Fulton Street, Chicago —K.S.

• Rate: 4.9/5.0; 142 reviews (Source: Google.com)
• Address:1340 West Fulton Street, Chicago —K.S.
• Website: http://www.ever-restaurant.com/