Guard and Grace

While Denver's dining landscape is saturated with shrines to beef, this progressive, high-roller ode to cattle from prolific chef-owner Troy Guard is a cut above the rest. Guard and Grace Restaurant have the super-stylish quarters, furnished with a soaring walk-in wine cellar, chef's counter overlooking a vast open kitchen, posh lounge, and raw bar, is a sight to behold, as are the starters, side dishes, and slabs of the steer.

Appetizers include fresh oysters, oak-fired octopus jazzed up with a white bean and celery salad, house-cured pork belly, and carrots sharing space with herb yogurt and crumbles of pistachio. The beautifully seasoned bone-in rib-eye is a head-turner on every level. Side dishes include foraged mushrooms, loaded baked potatoes, and crispy Brussels sprouts. For dessert, don't miss the sticky toffee cake. The wine room has 3,000 bottles; while the prices are lofty, it's easily one of the most impressive wine lists in the city.

Detail information:

Address: 1801 California St. (18th St.), Denver

Website: http://www.guardandgrace.com/