Huayna Potosi

The closest high mountain to La Paz is Huayna Potosi. It is about 15 miles due north of the city and is surrounded by towering mountains, making it Bolivia's most popular climb. The standard climbing path is a rather simple glacier climb with several crevasses and a hard rise to the peak. The Huayna Potosi West Face, on the other hand, is Bolivia's largest mountain face. This 1000 meter high face has several tough snow and ice approaches.

Rudolf Dienst and Adolf Schulze, two Germans, made the first ascent of the standard route in 1919. This mountain is described in some climbing manuals as the "easiest 6000er in the world," but this claim is questionable. The easiest route, with a UIAA rating of PD, involves an exposed ridge and parts of moderately steep ice. In terms of technical difficulties, there are numerous 6000m mountains that are easier to climb. As a result, Huayna Potosi has been dubbed the "easiest 6000-meter climb" since the height gain from trailhead to summit is less than 1400 meters, with easy access from La Paz. Climbers will have an easier time acclimating because La Paz is at 3640 meters.

In 1877, a group of six German climbers attempted the first ascent of Huayna Potosi. They set out for the unclimbed mountain with no suitable equipment and little practical knowledge. Their failed endeavor ended in catastrophe. At an altitude of roughly 5600m, four climbers died; the remaining two managed to withdraw in deteriorating conditions, but died of fatigue shortly after reaching the Zongo Pass. An expedition of Austrian climbers attempted the peak ascent again 21 years later, on September 9, 1898, but were forced to descend after five days at 5900m. Finally, in 1919, Germans R. Dienst and O. Lhose climbed the mountain on the east face and reached the south peak (which is marginally higher than the north summit) on a route that would subsequently become the present usual route, with some variations.

Location: Bolivia
Range: Cordillera Real
Elevation: 6088 m | 19974 ft