Maison François

Any dining establishment worth considering will have a wandering pot of cornichons. It's the kind of small touch that distinguishes a location; it's obvious that the owners are aware of the pickled cucumber's potent potency as well as the fact that some customers would want more than the typical three or four to go with a delicate heap of charcuterie. Maison Francois is a French bistro that gets these particulars right. It is brand-new to St James's in Central London, which is quickly developing into the city's premier cuisine district. The bread is wonderful, the butter is soft and proudly salty, and there are just three varieties of extremely well-cooked potatoes on the list of sides in addition to the many cornichons.

Oeufs en gelée, moules marinière, and jambon persillé are on the menu, which appears to be classically French but is actually restrained, delicate, and not overly filling. For instance, the anchovy, ricotta, and thyme on grilled bread is a remarkable achievement of creaminess, punchy umami, and crunch, and it's not the kind of thing you'd find on a pavement table in Paris. The dessert trolley, a moving assortment of sweet treats that range from the barely calorific to the extravagantly sumptuous, continues the roaming and brings it to a close. Simply place as many or as many orders as you wish. A French bistro with space, at last.