Capitano

Capitano, presented to you by the Bar Liberty crew, is bigger, brighter, and louder than its Johnston Street twin, delivering significantly more approachable cuisine and alcohol while maintaining the same high-quality, entertaining, and lovely service. The renovated Beaufort now has clean, classic cream walls and large windows on two sides, rich crimson trim reminiscent of old-school French cafe silverware, and everyone looks to be absorbed in the passionate discussion. Because Capitano is primarily a social establishment, the menu's goal is to lubricate and satisfy rather than distract attention away from your friends.

Burgundy and white walls, olive green banquettes, oak tables, and art deco lamp shades now adorn the now light and colorful interior. You can choose to sit at the bar or at the tables. The terrazzo tiles on the floor are stunning. Perhaps these, together with the high ceilings, create an environment where individuals feel compelled to holler at one another. Capitano is noisy, but that's nothing a few acoustic boards couldn't rectify.

On the surface, the menu appears straightforward, with cured meat appetizers, veggie sides, pizzas, two kinds of pasta, and two 'large plates'. The dishes, on the other hand, are not. A bone-in veal parmigiana ($65) is pricey for its size, but it's intricate and a unique spin on a classic. And the vesuvio with vodka sauce ($24) catches our eye right away.

Location: 415-421 Rathdowne Street, Carlton Victoria 3053

Website: www.capitano.com.au