Grossi Florentino

It's been a while since gentlemen were obliged to have their coats on at all times, but it's encouraging to see that Grossi Florentino is still sweating the small stuff. The large Mural Room is one of Melbourne's last bastions of sumptuous European dining appeal, with dark lighting and the providing of a handbag stool to create the scene upon arrival. You'll see the balletic process known as the seasoning of the glasses if you purchase a bottle of wine from the novel-sized list, regardless matter whether you select a Premier Cru or a $70 Vermentino. Not to mention the delicious snacks that arrive to help offset the admission fee of $150 for three meals or $180 for the "grand tour" of six.

It's a good way to start an official program that may include swatches of jewel-like tuna, radish and horseradish cream, and a nectar-sweet blood orange surprise. A more robust plate of octopus is available, cooked with deftness to mix a gutsy exterior char with insides of just-set gelatinousness, and accompanied by a smoked potato mash that serves as both carbohydrates and sauce. Desserts reinterpret the Italian oeuvre through a contemporary lens. The shape-shifting honey pannacotta, bee pollen, and frozen Grand Marnier mousse form a conga line inspired by the Italian mimosa cake. It's classic-moderne, and it reminds me a little of the Grossi family. They've secured their place in the city's eating heritage via three generations of hard work and some darn great food.

Location: 80 Bourke Street, Melbourne Victoria 3000

Website: www.grossiflorentino.com