Mr Pietro

Mr Pietro's allure stems from its modest elegance and serene confidence. Mr. Pietro's frontage is hidden among terrace houses, unmarked and unmanned, unlike its counterparts along Lygon Street (around the corner), which are strewn with clichés like red-and-white gingham tablecloths, Italian flags, Alfa Romeo logos, and spruikers out the front thickening their accents to attract the unknowing tourist. Those who enter will be greeted with a large, white space with seating for 100 people, chestnut-stained hardwood furnishings, and some of that white Italian marble. There's also a sought-after, more colorful patio for al fresco eating. It doesn't have to shout Italian to be Italian, as Mr. Pietro demonstrates.

Locals in the know, Barbagallo's long-time ardent admirers, and a good smattering of Melbourne's elder hospitality professionals will fill the restaurant. It's the type of location where you can go on a first date, catch up with friends, or take Grandma out to supper. The menu isn't intimidating; it reads like any other on Lygon Street, with classics like Caprese salad, garlic prawns, and cannelloni, but the execution is conventional, restrained, and made with high-quality ingredients.

A few pizzas and pasta have been brought in from Caprica, and the execution is spot-on. Barbagallo's fresher, lighter trademark pizza has the same thin, yeasted dough covered with fresh tomato and buffalo mozzarella, sprinkled with basil and topped with a splash of olive oil. Spaghetti is tangled in a delicate, sweet, briny emulsion produced from the fluids of perfectly cooked diamond clams, cooked to the teeth.

Location: 50 Grattan St, Melbourne Victoria 3053

Website: mr-pietro.edan.io