Pinotta

Pinotta has gently done its trade as the Platonic ideal of the neighborhood haunt since starting somewhere during the Qing period in 2011. The trio of superb, unfussy Italian food, a snappy and clever wine selection, and X-factor fairy dust service plays a convincing game, and new head chef Cian Fenaughty's arrival has been a velvet revolution.

This 28-year-old has embraced his first head chef role with an innate understanding of the algorithms keeping North Fitzrovians happy while being afforded room by the owner and wine guru Heidi Modra to add his own measured flair. He was previously sous chef at Sunda and before that an acolyte of Andrew McConnell's empire.

That may be anything as easy as a snack-friendly meal of fried chickpeas and saltbush leaves coated in paprika, cayenne, and a generous amount of salt, which a potato chip corporation could seek to rip off and sell from vending machines. The best part is a warm, detoxifying chicken broth with star anise, dried shiitakes, and fennel seed, which contains al dente threads of cured, dried, and grilled scallops. It's an Asian-accented curveball that smacks the winter target square in the face. However, pasta remains the primary course, which pleases the gods. A bird's-nest tangle of squid ink tagliolini plays it superbly with the absorbing richness of sea urchin custard, served with hunks of Loafer bread for some clandestine carb-on-carb action.

Location: 32 Best Street, Fitzroy North Victoria 3068

Website: pinotta.com