Osteria Ilaria

It's never easy to follow up a hugely successful first restaurant with another winner, but the people behind cult-favorite Tipo 00 have done just that with their new wine bar, Osteria Ilaria. This stylish newcomer, which has taken over the Little Bourke Street premises next door to its iconic pasta bar sister, complements rather than competes with Tipo 00's true Italianness, taking an even greater bite out of Europe.

The warmly lighted area is all white-painted exposed brick, with an open bar and kitchen running the length of the space and a swanky private dining room at the rear. There's also the menu to consider. It's intelligent enough to place this newcomer among Melbourne's modern wine bars, yet the service is laid-back enough to appeal to the more informal, snack-obsessed after-work crowd.

From the rich roasted duck for two — with a honey-sweet sauce tempered by sharp radicchio and the crunch of hazelnuts ($46) — to a textural side dish of creamed corn, pepped up with the addition of fried turnip tops ($15), there's a thoughtfulness that runs right through to the pointy end. Keep an eye out for the big finale, where you'll learn about the amazing things that may happen when someone creates a chocolate mousse on olive oil ($14).

Location: 367 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne Victoria 3000

Website: www.osteriailaria.com