Allium

Within the calm Kensington Square, there is a little diner with only 16 seats. It's so unassuming that you might walk right past it without giving it a second thought. But it means passing over Allium, a one-month-old restaurant led by chef Dillion Ng, formerly of GastroSmiths and The Humble Loaf. His most recent business is environmentally conscious: produce is sourced from sustainable sources, beef is used sparingly, and veggies are abundant on the brunch menu.

A simple bowl of congee ($18) is frequently regarded as too bland and uninteresting to warrant a spot on a restaurant menu. But this is a multi-layered dish, naturally sweetened by zucchini and chayote squash and reinforced with umami-rich kelp and vegetable stock. A sprinkle of pine nuts and a side of lotus root kinpira infused with the nutty aroma of sesame oil lend a delightful crunch to the creamy gruel.

Similarly, the fenugreek white wine curry ($20) relies on fresh ingredients. Okra, thin French green beans, and beancurd are stewed in a strong slurry that is slippery with spice and lingers on the mouth. When the heat becomes intolerable, enjoy a fresh strawberry and kaffir lime cooler ($5) – with wheat straw, of course – or cool down with roasted almond and Medjool date milk ($6).

Even if you're full by the end of the meal, don't pass up the sourdough waffles ($15), which are so airy and light that they effortlessly slip from fork to mouth. That is the allure of Allium. It does not dazzle you with flamboyance and theatrics. It impresses with deceptively basic, well-thought-out meals that unfold as you reach for another mouthful – until you realize you've finished your dinner and your plates are spotless, exactly like the table next door.

Rate: 4.4/5.0, 133 reviews (Google.com)
Address: 2 Jln Lokam, #01-11 Kensington Square, Singapore 537846
Website: allium.sg