Attica

With all of the activity around Attica and chef-owner Ben Shewry – lockdowns to focus on baking and lasagne, free dinners for hospo employees, a Yarra Valley pop-up Attica Summer Camp, Instagram cooking with Hamish Blake, DJing events – the label "restaurant" can feel simplistic.

Despite this, the restaurant continues to be the Rosetta Stone for all that emanates from its dimly illuminated dining room. It's in Shewry's sense of humour and sharp Kiwi wit. "Reko & Ben's Picnic Caviar" is a dish of green ants served with pancakes and sour cream. It's also present in the tableside BBQ with seafood and Indigenous spices, as well as the "Croc Fat Caramel," which concludes a dinner. Serious rigour, intellect, and heart are complemented by a jokey, slightly self-deprecating tone.

Shewry is very aware of the cost of his world-famous 10-course meal and works to make it meaningful, particularly in terms of Indigenous culture and ingredients. He succeeds admirably and totally.

Address: 74 Glen Eira Rd, Ripponlea, Vic

Phone:(03) 9530 0111

Website:attica.com.au