Elska

The antler on your table serves as a helpful reminder that at Elska, things sometimes get a little wild. Not in terms of service — the floor staff at this modest, Nordic-inspired, 12-seat dégustation-only fine-dining establishment are exceptional. The décor, too, avoids the bizarre, with Scandi-blond dining chairs and large round tables, as well as the odd reindeer hide that barely raises an eyebrow. It's the menu details that might be mind-boggling after 15 dishes.

For example, dried and savory powdered bugs sprinkled (surprise deliciously) over a disc of gamey Marburg-raised emu crudo, or the acidic green ant garnishes on your crocodile tail dumpling, or that wonderfully flavorsome cream laced with marron brain and abalone XO in a puff of brioche bread. Allow the chef to do his thing.

A cracker pud pays homage to the Crunchie bar with delicious hexagonal tiles filled with fermented honey, salty chocolate, and burnt honeycomb. It's a tough order, but James Horsfall's astute wine selection has enough eccentricity to match the kitchen's daring.

Address: 148 Merthyr Rd, New Farm, Qld

Phone:0451 955 084

Website:elska.com.au