a'Mare is the crown jewel in Crown Sydney's dining repertoire, brought to us by Italian power couple Alessandro and Anna Pavoni (Ormeggio at The Spit). Despite its location within a hotel and casino, the new Italian fine dining promises a refined evening without the pretense. You'd think the restaurant's gorgeous, palazzo-inspired décor and unbroken views of Barangaroo's glistening bay would distract from what's going on on the plate.

The exquisite foods, on the other hand, are as demanding as their settings. Take, for example, the squid-ink risotto, which is dark and bold, with a buttermilk emulsion and vivid flashes of roe on top. Or try the famous cotoletta, a 1kg veal cutlet with a grissini crust that's meant to be shared.

There is also no shortage of theatrics. In a big Carrara marble mortar, a remarkable basil pesto is created tableside, while gelato is scooped and topped right in front of your eyes. It's a high-end experience that's well worth the money.

Address: Crown Sydney, Level 1/1 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo, NSW

Phone: (02) 8871 7171

website: crownsydney.com.au/indulge/amare

Africola is the epitome of rock 'n' roll. Local chefs, visiting celebs, and impossibly chic youths nurse cocktails in the unique decor, which was formerly dominated by brilliant blues, greens, and yellows but is now filled with more muted tones.

Outside, the cool remains, cloaked in foliage. Africola changed the hero ingredients to the plant side of the scale a few years ago, which has further added to the sensation of discovery. There's a lot at Africola that few people have seen before - their tagline is "Bringing our skills from the plaas center stage, keeping our mantra, Bokkies, braai, dop, and chop" – but nothing that will confuse you. Because even if the staff weren't there to expertly guide you through the meal and the extensive wine list, you can rest assured that nothing will go wrong. Keep it up.

Address: 4 East Tce, Adelaide, SA

Phone:(08) 8223 3885

Website:https://www.africola.com.au/

The most fascinating aspect of this modern Vietnamese-Australian restaurant, aside from chef and co-owner Thi Le's spectacular, creative cooking, is its ongoing growth. Le's menus immediately showed a promising and unique perspective through mediums as diverse as pickled mussels, Vietnamese blood pudding, and salad dressings made with fermented tofu when it first opened in 2015 – in a sparsely decorated Bridge Road shopfront (the minimalist approach remains but is now more upholstered).

Previously a la carte, Anchovy now offers a set menu of eight to ten items, such as a rendition of bánh bèo with cured pork relish, custard apple ice cream with gingerbread granita, or expertly boned garfish with jicama and rice paddy. Another progression, which now has a permanent, dedicated facility next door, is the experimental experiment of bánh m through an Anchovy filter (fillings include jungle spicy pork sausage and crisp fried egg).

Address: 338 Bridge Rd, Richmond, Vic

Phone: (03) 9428 3526

Website: anchovy.net.au

With all of the activity around Attica and chef-owner Ben Shewry – lockdowns to focus on baking and lasagne, free dinners for hospo employees, a Yarra Valley pop-up Attica Summer Camp, Instagram cooking with Hamish Blake, DJing events – the label "restaurant" can feel simplistic.

Despite this, the restaurant continues to be the Rosetta Stone for all that emanates from its dimly illuminated dining room. It's in Shewry's sense of humour and sharp Kiwi wit. "Reko & Ben's Picnic Caviar" is a dish of green ants served with pancakes and sour cream. It's also present in the tableside BBQ with seafood and Indigenous spices, as well as the "Croc Fat Caramel," which concludes a dinner. Serious rigour, intellect, and heart are complemented by a jokey, slightly self-deprecating tone.

Shewry is very aware of the cost of his world-famous 10-course meal and works to make it meaningful, particularly in terms of Indigenous culture and ingredients. He succeeds admirably and totally.

Address: 74 Glen Eira Rd, Ripponlea, Vic

Phone:(03) 9530 0111

Website:attica.com.au

After going into this dim dining room, you'll barely have your coat off when a leaf-like beetroot wafer covered with smoked eel mousse and topped with a disc of raspberry and vinegar-coated beets hits the table. It's a nice introduction to chef Ben Willis's classic yet slick and modern cooking, which he's constantly exhibited since taking over the Aubergine kitchen 13 years ago.

The menu changes daily, but expect a few intricate snacks and some pescatarian flashiness before the arrival of the heavier proteins – perhaps a blushing wedge of tender beef accompanied by a pair of smoked potato-filled dumplings that, with a light blanket of buttery truffle sauce, neatly demonstrates Willis' flashy-yet-unobtrusive flavor-mastery. While the wine list devotes pages to each variety and features a cellar of highly coveted vintages, the per-glass selection is just as sharp, concise, and balanced as the food.

Address: 18 Barker St, Griffith, ACT

Phone:(02) 6260 8666

Website:aubergine.com.au

Aurora is more than just a fantastic newcomer to Adelaide's dining scene. Sweep in past the open kitchen to a dining area separated by light and texture into areas within rooms. If you take a false turn, you'll find yourself in a performance area with live music or a DJ. Aurora, which is part of the larger Light ADL project, is a registered charity dedicated to innovation and treating people properly, at a time when the hospitality industry is beset by allegations of significant underpayment.

Wessels (previously of d'Arenburg Cube) isn't a fan of the mundane but worthwhile. This artists district avoids the bohemian in favor of high-quality meals with twists and storylines, seasons, and sustainability. The char comes from a custom-made braai. Cocktails made with gin and shellfish from South Australia are the stars of the show. Staff who are eager to learn on the job and are fairly compensated. Great wines to complement the gin, as well as decadent sweets that you can dance off next door if necessary.

Address: 63 Light Sq, Adelaide, SA

Phone:(08) 7089 9600

Website:auroraadl.com.au

Have you heard about the restaurant in the CBD that takes reservations, provides entrée-main-dessert, and employs waitstaff that dress and act professionally? In an era when wine bars, tiny dishes, and excessively familiar service are all the rage, Balthazar's approach to hospitality may appear innovative, but it isn't: refined, old-school hospitality has been Balthazar's thing since its inception in 1998.

A translucent peel of pressed raw scallop and sea mullet strewn with tobiko equals new-wave carpaccio, according to the current menu. A creative scallop crème anglaise and char-grilled pineapple complement the roast pork belly.A classic marjolaine gets a modern twist with sandalwood nut ice cream. This is assured material, as is the chatter of top-tier servers who know (and love) what they're doing, particularly when it comes to assisting clients in making the most of the powerhouse cellar. A time-honored Perth tradition that's getting better with age

Address: 6 The Esplanade, Perth

Phone:(08) 9421 1206

Website: balthazar.com.au

Even if its fresh, current energy makes that designation seem weird, Bar Lourinh's overwhelming 15-year influence on Melbourne's dining scene DNA has it skirting institution status. Matt McConnell's Iberian-inspired menu is a love letter to the Mediterranean's bars and tavernas, a blend of skilled cooking and great ingredients like corn and smoked chili croquettes, grilled chorizo and pork liver pinxos, Goolwa pipis steamed with fino sherry, lemon buuelos with dulce de leche, or the irresistible menu favorite, spiced chickpeas and spinach.

It's ageless and essential thanks to a vibrant soundtrack, attentive service, and décor that skillfully blends cool and sophisticated (leather banquettes and dark oak tables) with exuberant kitsch (massed religious imagery and op shop paintings).

The blackboard wine list, which is leaning toward Spanish without being didactic, adopts a "all that is good in the world" approach, perfectly echoing the atmosphere inside Lourinh's bar.

Address: 37 Little Collins St, Melbourne, Vic

Phone: (03) 9663 7890

Website:barlourinha.com.au

Biànca, all rosy-hued terracotta tile, gentle lighting, and come-hither charm, as if Ada Lane wasn't enough of a restaurant drawcard. It's a scene, yes, but it's also very approachable. Cool Italia isn't too serious about itself or its Europop backing track, and the quick service only adds to the buzz.

The abundance of collectible bottles strewn over the space emphasizes the cellar's width and depth. There's also plenty to look at in the bar, including a fantastic selection of Italian gins. Breads from the wood-fired oven are very good. Likewise, the fritti section's sage anchovy flavor erupts. Start with the antipasti, then finish with something from the grill, such a butterflied blue mackerel fillet with herby salmoriglio.

Alternatively, toss into freshly cooked pasta. The pomodoro paccheri is a distinctive dish. Dolce & Gabbana should not be overlooked. A classic lemon sorbet enchantedly presented in its skin over ice has a place in everyone's life.

Address: Ada Lane, 46 James St, Fortitude Valley, QLD

Phone:(07) 3063 7679

Website:biancarestaurant.com.au

Brae's dégustation menu's poetic list of ingredients ("raspberries/apples/thirty-eight distinct varieties of tomato/late potatoes") promotes the abundance of chef-owner Dan Hunter's organic farm while subtly underplaying the beauty and intricacy to come.

There are several delicacies here — a deep purple quince paste jelly topped with pink finger lime; the iconic cannoli-channeling parsnip and apple dessert; a pastel, precisely plated prawn and kohlrabi hand roll – that are so beautifully presented that eating them seems like a violation. But defile away, for the flavors Hunter conjures will make you forget all about your regrets. One of Australia's great food offerings is his high-low balancing act (from delicate, flawless, hand-plucked greens from the garden to hearty wood-roasted Berkshire pig served with spicy sauce).

A elegant setting, attentive service, a wine list deserving of its own cult following, and garden strolling paths that take you through the origin story of your meal make for an exciting, instructive, and unmissable experience.

Address: 4285 Cape Otway Rd, Birregurra, Vic

Phone:(03) 5236 2226

Website:braerestaurant.com

This lively eatery and bakery in Freo's West End is home to a large church. While some come for the coffee and takeout, the devoted come for the open kitchen's spectacle and the delights of a menu guided by executive chef Scott Brannigan's black book of farmers and producers. With the exception of the iconic charred lamb ribs, the menu changes with the seasons: harissa-roasted cauliflower and pomegranate with an avocado purée is a winter delight, while tamarind-glazed mullet pairs well with maize infused with pickled onion juice.

The floor crew in this renovated warehouse are just as polite and clever, and they like deciphering the menu's compact, largely Western Australian drinks list. The dishy fruit-loaf bread and butter pud with orange-cardamom ice cream and butterscotch remains a major element of the Bread in Common experience, whether it's cleaning up plates or the dishy fruit-loaf bread and butter pud with orange-cardamom ice cream and butterscotch.

Address: 43 Pakenham St, Fremantle, WA

Phone:0449 588 404

Website:breadincommon.com.au

Cafe Paci would be a navy suit or a little black dress if it were an item of clothing - appropriate for any occasion. This high-energy European bistro slash wine bar never fails to deliver, whether it's for an aperitif and nibble at the bar, a romantic night out, or a long-overdue get up with pals. The à la carte menu, which ranges in size from small appetizers to large-format entrees, is inspired by chef and owner Pasi Petänen's Finnish heritage, with forays into Italy and France.

Whatever the reason, this is the type of meal that people are craving right now. Fermented chilli butter is used to dress up plump prawn and tarragon ravioli; A rich and slightly pungent smoked-trout XO is mixed with potato dumplings, and a tender whole chicken is coated in black garlic and served in chicken fat vinaigrette. Trust your server when it comes to wine; everything on Giorgio De Maria's list is lighthearted and food-friendly.

Address: 131 King St, Newtown, NSW

Phone:131 King St, Newtown, NSW

Website:cafepaci.com.au

To get the whole Chaco Bar experience, you must let go of all inhibitions at the fabric-draped entrance. Because "nose-to-tail" is more than a catchphrase inside this extended and melancholy Japanese abode. Nothing goes to waste at this city-fringe eatery, which specializes in yakitori and takes inspiration from yatai, a traditional laneway izakaya or food cart that originated in owner Keita Abe's hometown of Fukuoka. Take the birds, which are deboned by hand and skewered, basted, and grilled to perfection on a robata grill, while their bones and feet are boiled into a rich broth for sister restaurant Chaco Ramen.

The tsukune meatballs are even peppered with cartilage. While the flame-licked skewers are the show-stopper, there are plenty of other delectable dishes on the menu. Warayaki (hay-smoked sashimi), miso-marinated toothfish with cumquat jam, or a freshly set chawanmushi are all possibilities. The cocktail selection is small but powerful, with sake and highball cocktails being standouts.

Address: 186-188 Victoria St, Potts Point, NSW

Phone:(02) 8593 4567

Website:chacobar.com.au

When chef Nemanja Babi began testing recipes ahead of opening Corella on Canberra's buzzy Lonsdale Street in April, it began as a plan to mix a tight, snackable cuisine with exceptional wines. Corella needed to be more than just a wine bar, and it didn't take long for everyone involved to realize that. Babi's cuisine features thoughtful yet simple share portions that are polished without pretense, embracing both natural ingredients and nostalgia. Buttermite (cultured butter mixed with Vegemite) is placed on the bread, and a native-spice version of thousand island dressing is put on the chips.

Sunrise lime (a relative of the finger lime) serves as the citrus in duck à l'orange, which is coupled with the sweet, buttery foil of bunya nut purée. Finally, a house-made chocolate freckle flavored with native river mint may be served. It's not difficult, but it's a lot of fun — just like Corella herself.

Address: 14 Lonsdale St, Braddon, ACT

Phone:(02) 6189 0757

Website:corellabar.com.au

Di Stasio Città, a triangle of food, art, and X-factor, slammed into Melbourne with the force of nuclear fission. The top end of town address further cements Rinaldo Di Stasio's image as Melbourne's hospitality Medici, as the glitterati, politerati, and literati accustomed to journeying to the St Kilda mothership can now enjoy an utterly familiar menu of Italian perfection right in their spiritual home. The calamari and radicchio maltagliati, as well as the saltimbocca alla Romana and ricotta gnudi, have made the journey to Spring Street.

Città isn't fast – unless you count the avant-garde video installations that play on loop – but you can relax in the brutalist dining room knowing that your Negroni will be skillfully mixed, and the anchovy and sage leaf fritters will be the right aperitivo to go with it. In 2022, the opening of adjacent Bar Democratico promises to further divide the atom of the local restaurant scene in the most enthralling way.

Address: 45 Spring St, Melbourne, Vic

Phone:(03) 9070 1177

Website:distasio.com.au/citta

Is it possible that Dier Makr exists somewhere other than Hobart? From the moodily lighted entrance (past outstanding sister wine bar Lucinda) to the dark wood palette of its Georgian dining room and almost primitive open kitchen – little more than a hibachi and a couple of hot plates – from which great flavours emerge, it's utterly of its place. Ravioli filled with celeriac cream and exquisite smoked gummy shark bacon lolling in dark, clear mushroom broth with sliced slippery jacks, grilled skewers of octopus and kipfler potatoes doused in a bright hot sauce, or a perfectly simple apple granita spiked with fennel seeds could all be on the set-course menu.

The majority of the ingredients are sourced locally, with some (like the apples) coming from just a few streets away, while the wine selection includes hidden gems like aged sake and minimal intervention crémant from all over the world. Service that is refreshingly reserved caps the deal.

Address:123 Collins St, Hobart, Tas

Phone:(03) 6288 8910

Website:diermakr.com

The antler on your table serves as a helpful reminder that at Elska, things sometimes get a little wild. Not in terms of service — the floor staff at this modest, Nordic-inspired, 12-seat dégustation-only fine-dining establishment are exceptional. The décor, too, avoids the bizarre, with Scandi-blond dining chairs and large round tables, as well as the odd reindeer hide that barely raises an eyebrow. It's the menu details that might be mind-boggling after 15 dishes.

For example, dried and savory powdered bugs sprinkled (surprise deliciously) over a disc of gamey Marburg-raised emu crudo, or the acidic green ant garnishes on your crocodile tail dumpling, or that wonderfully flavorsome cream laced with marron brain and abalone XO in a puff of brioche bread. Allow the chef to do his thing.

A cracker pud pays homage to the Crunchie bar with delicious hexagonal tiles filled with fermented honey, salty chocolate, and burnt honeycomb. It's a tough order, but James Horsfall's astute wine selection has enough eccentricity to match the kitchen's daring.

Address: 148 Merthyr Rd, New Farm, Qld

Phone:0451 955 084

Website:elska.com.au

Embla has given one of Melbourne's defining dining experiences: eating at its kitchen bar, since it opened five years ago. This isn't to say the other seats aren't good – they aren't, given the constant line for walk-in spots reserved for "the disorganized or those seeking some spontaneity in their lives" – but eating in the warmth of the wood-fired kitchen, watching vegetables and meat char and sparks fly, speaks to Embla's approach to both food and wine.

It's all about not messing with with the ingredients, whether it's letting soured cucumbers do their crisp, acidic thing with dill and feta, a properly cooked bavette steak heightened by fermented porcini, or a passionfruit posset demonstrating how wonderful a buddy pineapple ice can be.

The same may be said for the wine. Embla's has a fantastic wine list, compiled with humor and insight, and is one of Melbourne's early and most important proponents of natural and minimal intervention wines.

Address: 122 Russell St, Melbourne

Phone:0455 122 121

Website:embla.com.au