Aubergine

After going into this dim dining room, you'll barely have your coat off when a leaf-like beetroot wafer covered with smoked eel mousse and topped with a disc of raspberry and vinegar-coated beets hits the table. It's a nice introduction to chef Ben Willis's classic yet slick and modern cooking, which he's constantly exhibited since taking over the Aubergine kitchen 13 years ago.

The menu changes daily, but expect a few intricate snacks and some pescatarian flashiness before the arrival of the heavier proteins – perhaps a blushing wedge of tender beef accompanied by a pair of smoked potato-filled dumplings that, with a light blanket of buttery truffle sauce, neatly demonstrates Willis' flashy-yet-unobtrusive flavor-mastery. While the wine list devotes pages to each variety and features a cellar of highly coveted vintages, the per-glass selection is just as sharp, concise, and balanced as the food.

Address: 18 Barker St, Griffith, ACT

Phone:(02) 6260 8666

Website:aubergine.com.au